Ontario: Old Baldy Rock Climbing Guidebook

by todd | Jul 26, 2016

Old Baldy
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
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Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Lion’s Head | Metcalfe | Mount Nemo | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

With its impeccable white walls and dramatic position overlooking the Beaver Valley, Old Baldy is one of Ontario’s top sport climbing areas. The sun-drenched nature of the majority of the cliff combined with the relatively open base ensures that Old Baldy is great option both early and late in the season. In warmer weather, the Black Forest area offers some much-appreciated relief from the sun’s scorching rays. While sport climbing is the crag’s main draw, there are some notable trad climbing opportunities scattered across the cliff. Toss in a short and relatively easy approach, and becomes apparent why Old Baldy is such a popular cliff.

Ontario: Lion’s Head Rock Climbing Guidebook

by todd | Jul 26, 2016

Lion’s Head
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
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Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Metcalfe | Mount Nemo | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

With its spectacular views of Georgian Bay and immaculate limestone walls, Lion’s Head is truly the crown jewel of the Southern Ontario climbing scene. This massive cliff is home to many of the best and hardest sport routes in the province. Thanks to its northern location and proximity to Georgian Bay, climbing at Lion’s Head is viable even in the peak summer heat. While sport climbing is the main draw at this cliff, the area also has a surprising number of high-quality traditional climbs. It’s worth noting that a significant number of routes at this crag have hanging belays and can only be accessed by rappel; this is not a conventional easy-access sport crag and it’s definitely not a great first choice for climbers just venturing out from the gym. But with the proper skills, Lion’s Head is an exceptional climbing area that offers stunning climbing opportunities for anyone with an appropriate level of experience.

Ontario: Metcalfe Rock Climbing Guidebook

by todd | Jul 26, 2016

Metcalfe
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
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Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Lion’s Head | Mount Nemo | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

As one of Ontario’s older crags, Metcalfe Rock has an excellent assortment of trad and sport climbs. Recently, the cliff has seen a flurry of new activity as climbers have re-bolted old mixed-gear lines into modern sport routes. At the same, a few dedicated climbers have been busy establishing an impressive number of new moderate sport routes. The combination of new and updated climbs have transformed Metcalfe Rock into the perfect crag for any beginner-to-intermediate sport or trad climber.

Ontario: The Swamp Rock Climbing Guidebook

by todd | Jul 21, 2016

The Swamp
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
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Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Lion’s Head | Metcalfe | Mount Nemo | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake

With approximately 150 routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.13, The Swamp is one of Ontario’s most popular climbing areas. While many climbers tend to associate the crag with sport climbing, the cliff also has a number of exceptional moderate traditional climbs. As a relatively new area, the crag has been developed to modern standards with stainless hardware, appropriately spaced bolts and proper anchors on almost every route. The Swamp’s southern exposure makes this a great cliff during cooler spring and fall conditions.

Ontario: Mount Nemo Rock Climbing Guidebook

by todd | Jun 27, 2016

Mount Nemo
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
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Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Lion’s Head | Metcalfe | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

Located just 45 minutes from Toronto, Mount Nemo is the premier crag in the Milton region. The over-2km long cliff has more than 350 routes ranging from easy 5.fun trad adventures to challenging 5.12 sport classics. And thanks to the recent re-equipping of Nemo’s many older routes, the cliff now also offers a significant number of moderate sport climbs. The crag’s northern aspect ensures cool conditions making this an ideal climbing area during warmer weather.