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Devil's Head Climbing cover

Devil's Head Climbing

by Tod Anderson

Stonefinders, Inc.

Overlooked or ignored for many years, Devil's Head has become one of Colorado's premier sport climbing destinations. Over 100 crags, spires and walls contain some of the best granite in the western U.S., and there are now over 1000 climbs at Devil's Head and Tod is updating this guidebook with new routes regularly.

Devil's Head features great views and a feeling of remoteness, despite being only an hour from downtown Denver. Most crags require some walking to access, but the hikes are generally over moderate terrain and elevation gains are reasonable. It's easy to find sun or shade as needed, depending on the daily temperatures. Each crag has its own unique character and a wide variety of types of climbing are found at the always expanding collection of crags at Devil's Head.

Both free and pay camping are available in the vicinity and some sites even feature walk from camp climbing access. Pay camping exists at the main trailhead in a small campground that has about 15 sites. Those often fill up on weekends, so early weekend arrival is advised. Free dispersed camping is allowed along Rampart Range Road and in Jackson Creek valley. The best sites are located past the turnoff to the main trailhead and beyond Mile Marker 10.

Sectors in alphabetical order:

Devil's Gate Sector99 climbs in 11 sectors
East Valley127 climbs in 12 sectors
Far Northeast Quadrant139 climbs in 7 sectors
Icebox Sector42 climbs in 5 sectors
Jackson Creek Sector136 climbs in 7 sectors
Lower West Side132 climbs in 11 sectors
Parking Lot Rock6 climbs
Private Idaho Sector68 climbs in 8 sectors
Radio Head64 climbs in 10 sectors
Rampart Range North Sector45 climbs in 8 sectors
Sawblade Ridge89 climbs in 10 sectors
Tzillastan Sector39 climbs in 4 sectors
West Valley191 climbs in 16 sectors
Workman’s Wall Sector92 climbs in 5 sectors


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