Overlooked or ignored for many years, Devil's Head has become one of Colorado's premier sport climbing destinations. Over 100 crags, spires and walls contain some of the best granite in the western U.S., and there are now over 1000 climbs at Devil's Head and Tod is updating this guidebook with new routes regularly.
Devil's Head features great views and a feeling of remoteness, despite being only an hour from downtown Denver. Most crags require some walking to access, but the hikes are generally over moderate terrain and elevation gains are reasonable. It's easy to find sun or shade as needed, depending on the daily temperatures. Each crag has its own unique character and a wide variety of types of climbing are found at the always expanding collection of crags at Devil's Head.
Both free and pay camping are available in the vicinity and some sites even feature walk from camp climbing access. Pay camping exists at the main trailhead in a small campground that has about 15 sites. Those often fill up on weekends, so early weekend arrival is advised. Free dispersed camping is allowed along Rampart Range Road and in Jackson Creek valley. The best sites are located past the turnoff to the main trailhead and beyond Mile Marker 10.
|Devil's Gate Sector||99 climbs in 11 sectors|
|East Valley||127 climbs in 12 sectors|
|Far Northeast Quadrant||139 climbs in 7 sectors|
|Icebox Sector||42 climbs in 5 sectors|
|Jackson Creek Sector||97 climbs in 3 sectors|
|Lower West Side||106 climbs in 10 sectors|
|Parking Lot Rock||6 climbs|
|Private Idaho Sector||65 climbs in 8 sectors|
|Radio Head||64 climbs in 10 sectors|
|Rampart Range North Sector||45 climbs in 8 sectors|
|Sawblade Ridge||89 climbs in 10 sectors|
|Tzillastan Sector||38 climbs in 4 sectors|
|West Valley||191 climbs in 16 sectors|
|Workman’s Wall Sector||92 climbs in 5 sectors|