El Potrero Chico Rock Climbing Guidebook author Frank Madden
My climbing started in Red River Gorge, Kentucky, where I pulled on the overhanging sandstone jugs that can make anyone’s arms fall off. Several years in the Red allowed climbing to sink its sharp teeth into my life. Dirtbaggin followed soon thereafter. Combine that with my love of traveling and you’ve got a recipe for some serious climbing trips. Even though the climbing in Red River Gorge can seem endless, I was ready to find some new amazing places to climb. After visiting a few places overseas, I finally found the walls of El Potrero Chico. The nature of the climbing couldn’t be more different than my years climbing in Red River Gorge. And maybe that’s exactly why I love it. The sharp contrast allows me to love the incredible vertical face climbing as much as the overhanging jug halls from back home.
From the first moment that I rode into the small town of Hidalgo, I knew there was something special about El Potrero Chico. During the taxi ride from the airport, Magic Ed told me all about the routes that I needed to climb and how he had been there for many years bolting lines and taking care of the climbers over the years. He dropped me off at the campground area just below the foot of the towering walls of Potrero and handed me a orange paper book that was my new guidebook for the climbing areas. Loud mariachi music was playing, a few locals were grilling just outside of the community kitchen at La Posada, drinking Tecate and tequila. I immediately knew that I was going to be spending a lot more time here than originally imagined.
Fast forward a couple years and here I am putting out this guidebook for all the climbers that continue to pour into Potrero Chico looking to climb the towering walls that inspired me to spend so much time here. The guidebook writing that I started more or less spawned out of the fact that most of the information available was out of date. Magic Ed did an amazing job over the years collecting all the newer route information but I knew something more could be added. I talked with Ed and told him I would collaborate with him to help write a new book, just in order to get together a finished product, and then he could get it printed himself. Unfortunately during my first full season of climbing in EPC, Ed’s health deteriorated, and towards the end of the season he became more attracted to the idea that I was working on something new.
The following summer, it was with deep sorrow that I and many people in the climbing world read that Magic Ed had passed away. With only the help he had given me, I found myself alone in trying to make this project happen. It wasn’t long though, and I had plenty of friends willing to help me continue on my project.
Frank on Freedom Fries 5.12c.
I’ve spent three seasons now climbing in the area, enjoying all the fantastic climbs put up by some really great developers. Although my knowledge of the area is still young, I’ve climbed over half the routes here. I hope that I have been able to create a great new guidebook that will really help those that are coming here for a climbing trip. My goal for the new guidebook is simply to get good information to people, as the climbing community of EPC is really beginning to grow again after more than a few years of low traffic to the area. Although the development is currently pretty slow, there is plenty of amazing rock here still waiting to be developed. Hopefully in the future as I continue to update through this format of the guidebook there will be gorgeous photos of all the routes.
So, get down here and enjoy the amazing big walls of Potrero Chico where you can climb for over a 1000 feet on bolts–one of the few places like that in the whole world. With over 600 climbs in the area, you’ll easily be able to find routes that you’ll come to love. Come enjoy this rad place that I’ve come to know as my second home.
Buy El Potrero Chico here and save money versus purchasing from within our app via Apple or Google. It’s exactly the same guidebook, but offered at a lower price on rakkup.com.
Outrage Wall Left-upper-sense-of-religion-right
Since its initial development, El Potrero Chico has always been known as a perfect winter climbing destination. The area is riddled with natural beauty, complete with a gorgeous circling mountain range, unique desert vegetation, a mild winter climate and of course, the titanic, pristine walls of El Potrero Chico. They are remarkable to look at no matter who you are, and for a climber they are a nearly endless playground. Even the locals, although few of them climb these walls, love and appreciate the intensely beautiful mountain that they live in the shadow of. And throughout the years the locals have always been open to the climbing community that arrives each winter when the conditions are ideal. Between October and February you’ll find climbers coming in from all over the world, especially from the United States and Canada. Come March, the exodus of climbers begins as the heat of the summer starts to set in. But no matter the time of year that you decide to visit, the local town of Hidalgo is always welcoming. Just keep in mind that if it’s a hot and sunny day, there is still plenty to climb in the shade. With the walls mostly being north or south facing, you can decide on where you want to climb based on the heat and sun situation.
Andrea Bessler on Baked Fresh Daily 5.10c.
Climbing started here in the late 80’s and early 90’s and has seen more than a couple waves of heavy development. Jeff Jackson and Alex Catlin really found a gem in the Northeastern region of Mexico. At first, coming down here and drilling with their gas powered drills was more than a little bit of a shock to the locals but the good times quickly started rolling with plenty of Tecate and tequila flowing. A few of the local families, influenced by the initial generosity of Homero Gutierrez Villarreal, have done major work on building the climber friendly community of Potrero Chico. The small backyards that housed a few tents back in the day are now excellent campgrounds that are home to hundreds of climbers during the climbing season. There is no amount of praise that is enough to Homero and his family for getting it all started.
Emma Ayling on Surfin the Wave 5.10d.
Over the years as climbers came and went, a few decided to set up a more prominent home in Hidalgo. Ed Wright, also known as Magic Ed, is probably the most well known because of all the help he gave out to climbers visiting the area. Airport runs, climbing information, and massive amounts of route development made him a legend in Potrero Chico history. He also spent a great deal of time helping out in the local community by getting kids get out rock climbing. His love for the area lives on every time someone gets out there and climbs one of his classic routes.
Evan Johnson on Dead-Man Walking 5.9.
With over 600 plus routes here, almost entirely sport, there is plenty of climbing available for everyone, even during the busy season. Although the crowds can seem a little daunting from mid December to mid January, if you are willing to step off the beaten path you’ll find yourself exploring the lesser known climbs here and I can assure you that there are plenty of gems tucked away in Potrero–enough to find you coming here season after season for a great Christmas and New Year’s getaway. Most of the climbing here is slab or vertical face climbing that will have you pulling on small crimps while balancing on miniscule feet to gain your way to anchors and summits. But for the lover of overhanging rock, don’t be discouraged! There are a few big crags here with overhanging headwalls, both single-pitch and multi-pitch. Only a handful of traditional lines remain including the epic ridge climbs that have only seen a handful of ascents, though they are best climbed in the off season when there is less climber traffic in the area due to poor rock quality and safety concerns for the people below you.
Mike Burdon on Bottom Feeder 5.12d.
Although the bolt lines can be packed tight in on certain walls, there is so much room for future development if you are willing to walk a little ways. Most of the current routes are within a 5 to 10 minute walk from the road which is nice and easy on the legs, but don’t let the longer approaches for certain crags keep you from checking out some really good climbs. With everything so close to the campgrounds, you don’t even need a car, making Potrero a fantastic winter vacation destination. And now with the El Potrero Chico’s new rakkup mobile app, all the amazing crags of Potrero Chico are even more accessible with all new color topo photos, route descriptions and climb ratings to help you find exactly what you want. As the area continues to grow, rakkup allows you to have an extremely up-to-date guidebook right in your pocket, without having to purchase new editions. In the future, a printed book will also be available.
El Potrero Chico is the world’s largest big wall sport climbing destination and is home to over 600+ sport routes. Located on the outskirts of Hidalgo Nuevo Leon, Mexico, a quaint little town that has been welcoming to the climbing community since the late 80’s and early 90’s. The sharp contrast between the low of the valley where the town sits and the very tall towering walls of EPC creates a very beautiful scenic view. These limestone walls have been developed with some amazingly large routes that are bolted all the way to the top. A great place for the beginner sport climber to get into the awesome world of multi-pitch climbing. Although many of the big multi-pitch climbs are considered moderates ranging from 5.10a to 5.10d, there are several that reach into the 5.11 and 5.12 range and even a couple in the 5.13 range. So there is plenty of amazing big walls for everyone.
That being said, the single-pitch climbing in El Potrero Chico is top notch. There are amazing routes of all grades from 5.7 to 5.13. So when you need a rest from scaling the massive walls, enjoy some of the cragging that is available in some of the other single pitch crags. Outrage wall, The Surf Bowl and Estrellas Canyon are well known for some amazing single pitch climbing.
The style of rock here is mostly slab/vertical face with a couple of crags that hold some beautiful overhanging steep climbing. The Lower Sense of Religion (better known as Moto Wall) and The Virgin Canyon have some of the best single pitch face climbs in the area. If you are looking for something different though, The Surf Bowl and Outrage Wall will be your best friend if you want to get on some awesome overhanging tufas while you are visiting. The weather down here is great during the winter and prime sending temps last for months. During the summer the sun situation changes for most of the crags and the hot Mexican sun pelts the walls with wicked hot rays. Find the shade!! With the climbing areas on mostly north or south facing walls you can always find shade when it’s hot outside.
A small part of the local community has stepped up to provide all the amenities necessary for an amazing climbing trip. When you are in need of a serious rest day there is plenty to enjoy at the campgrounds and around town. Plenty of good places to eat, a hot springs location about an hour’s drive from Hidalgo, the city of Monterrey if you are looking for some excitement and El Buho Cafe if you are looking for a great place to lounge, relax and sip some amazing coffee. Take the time to walk around town and check out the local community.
The towering limestone walls reach towards the skies while the mariachi music blares through the canyon with locals and climbers alike taking in the beauty of the climbing. Don’t be surprised when the locals come up and try to chat with you or even have a beer with you at the crag. They love seeing the “crazy” climbers up on the rock enjoying the beautiful place they live in. Before long you’ll be dancing to the mariachi music with whatever strength you have left from the amazing climbing here.
The guidebook for El Potrero Chico is being updated regularly a few times a year by the author who spends his winter months hiding from the snow by climbing and exploring more of the surrounding areas.
Buy both versions of the guidebook (print and digital) for only $53.99! That price includes $10.00 for shipping, meaning that you get the book for only $31 more! A screaming deal on a beautiful guidebook!
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Simeon Heimowitz is a licensed rock climbing guide, a member of the Professional Climbing Guides Institute (PCGI), and a Wilderness First Responder who has been technical rock climbing since 1995 and has taught thousands of people how to climb and stay safe in the vertical world for the better part of twenty years. Simeon is active in several climbing coalitions throughout the northern continent and believes in protecting open space for future generations. You can find his name on FA’s in guidebooks of the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, Mount Charleston, Nevada, Ralph Stover State Park in Pennsylvania, the New River Gorge in West Virginia, and throughout Mexico including; El Potrero Chico, Peña de Bernal, Aculco de Espinosa, and Las Peñas de Dexcani. Simeon learned to climb on traditional gear within the Delaware Water Gap recreational area, then moved onto the Gunks in 1997 which propelled him into a life of a professional rock climbing guide. Simeon lives in Aculco de Espinoza and owns SouthernXposure Guide Service which services Peña de Bernal, La Cascada in Aculco, and Las Peñas de Dexcani in Jilotepec. Please visit our Facebook page and read our reviews. Our testimonial page speaks for itself.
Guiding & Climbing La Via del Padre
Come and climb with SouthernXposure. See for yourself why we are the premiere guide service in all of Mexico.
Why did you leave El Potrero Chico, sell Los Pirules Ranch and relocate to Central Mexico? This is a question I have been asked frequently by fellow climbers (that have shared a rope and many grand adventures with me) while traveling throughout the United States.
Such a question is not easily answered within a few brief sentences. When one cooks a meal for their family and friends and it is remarked how delicious the food tastes and how was it prepared follows the same train of thought. Making the decision to sell such a grandiose property in Northern Mexico and reestablish the guide service was not an easy one to make but when taking all the parts to make the whole it seemed prudent.
La Peña de Bernal Mexico
Climbers are an interesting bunch to say the least. I read a bumper sticker years ago that read “My best vacation is your worst nightmare”. How true a statement could only be appreciated by a user group that plans every vacation well ahead of time to go to some far away location and exert so much energy that upon returning home we are far more exhausted than when we left.
Rock climbers desire fantastic climbing, beautiful weather, a comfortable place to sleep and large quantities of delicious food. Central Mexico offers all of these accoutrements and so much more.
La Peña de Bernal located East of the city of Queretaro and is Central Mexico’s premier multi pitch climbing destination. Bernal offers everything a climber could want and that much more. At 8,200 feet above sea level and a mere 1,300 miles North of the Equator the weather in Bernal is climbable 365 days a year. Also hugely desirable is La Peña being a monolith it is possible to chase the sun or shade for those who crave either or both. Is multi pitch climbing what you are looking for or is it single pitch sport? La Peña offers plenty of both.
Being the tallest monolith on Earth at 1,400 feet there are climbs up to nine pitches with several easy ways to rappel. If single pitch sport is more attractive there is cragging from 5.5 to 5.13d for the new leader or hardest of seasoned climbers. Peña de Bernal is an exquisite destination for more than just the great climbing. The town is magical as well.
In 2006 Bernal was sanctioned as a “Pueblo Magico” (Magical Town) through the Mexican Department of Tourism. This designation comes with the highest of regard within Mexico. To receive such the town has to have cultural, historic, or an attribute of importance that sets it in a league of its own. Bernal absolutely deserves such a coveted status as the town is unforgettable. The town boasts architecture that dates back to 1642, a rich culture, history, and locals that make any visitor feel welcome. With the Magic Town status comes tourism so plan on spending time walking around visiting the local artisan shops and restaurants.
What could be the best Mexican food in Central Mexico
Even though Bernal is world famous for their Gorditas plan a visit to one of the many sit down restaurants for a four star meal at an extremely reasonable price. Italian, Mexican, and so many more delicious restaurants it is hard to choose where to eat.
When I decided to leave Northern Mexico it was to relocate my guide service to an area with fantastic climbing, stable predictable temperatures and local inhabitants that invite visitors to look forward to exploration within the town that they call home. Bernal, Mexico is just such a place an so much more.
Come and visit this region of Mexico with a seventy meter rope, fifteen quickdraws and a taste for adventure. As the owner of the premiere rock climbing guide service in Mexico you can trust my judgment. I promise, you will not be disappointed.
Thomas and Jim following Via del Padre 5.10- (Seven Pitches).
If you are planning a trip to Bernal and need a guidebook to find your way around there is only one fully comprehensive book for all the information related to climbing available. Rakkup is a great application for anything climbing and they made all the information easily attainable. If you are planning a trip to Central Mexico (anywhere Mexico really) and have any questions or concerns you can email me directly. I would be happy to help in any way I can.
Remember; life is a journey, not a destination. Get out and explore Mexico.
