La région de Montmagny-L’islet possède un excellent potentiel pour le développement de site de voies et de blocs. La région est bien située pour une grimpe rapide de la rive sud de Québec ou pour une pause escalade lors d’un long déplacement sur l’autoroute 20.
Le CEMA est fier de vous présenter le premier site officiel de la région. Le parc du rocher de la Chapelle situé au cœur du magnifique paysage rurale de Momtmagny est intéressant par sa proximité d’accès et d’approche. Le site est un beau laboratoire de mouvement de blocs et de voies. Il y a au rocher de la Chapelle, un peu de tout. On y trouve un beau mélange de problèmes de blocs, d’option pour faire de la moulinette et quelques belles voies sportives. Ce premier site dans la région pourra plaire à tous, de la petite famille aux grimpeurs d’expériences.
Nicolas Rodrigue on Retour aux Sources V3
Synthia Laurin on Pointe Lacaille 5.8
Nicolas Rodrigue on Ganesha V1
Synthia Laurin on Étole 5.9+
Québec: Montmagny-L’Islet Rock Climbing by Nicolas Rodrigue was last modified: June 3rd, 2024 by todd
Voici un guide complet de l’escalade qu’on trouve dans le Parc régional du Poisson Blanc. Il y a longtemps que la grimpe se pratique sur le territoire, mais en 2016, suite à la demande des gestionnaires du Parc, ceux-ci ont établi une collaboration avec la FQME et à l’aide de plusieurs bénévoles ont procédé au développement de l’escalade sur les falaises du réservoir. Le résultat est ce qui se retrouve dans ce guide: cinq secteurs avec plus de 130 voies.
L’approche à l’escalade se fait uniquement par bateau et peut nécessiter jusqu’à 4 heures en canot pour se rendre. Il est donc commun de faire du canot-camping sur les îles aux sites désignés. Pour toute réservation ou information pour le camping vous devez vous référer au site du Poisson Blanc: www.poissonblanc.ca
Il est essentiel de respecter la réglementation en vigueur dans le Parc. Y avoir accès et y grimper est un privilège, aidez-nous à conserver l’accès à ce site unique.
Bonne aventure!
DWS at Paroi Écho
Araine Nguyen on Vent du Nord 5.9 Paroi Amiral (Credit Caleb Gingras)
?? on the second pitch of Virginie 5.10c at Paroi Éch0 (Credit: )
?? on Oeil de Lynx 5.10- Paroi Éléphant (Credit:)
Here is the complet guide to rock-climbing in the Parc Régional du Poison Blanc. Climbing on the various cliffs in the parc has been occasionally practiced by adventurous enthusiasts. But, in 2016 development stepped up. The Parc administrators collaborated with the FQME to organise and structure the development on the cliffs of the Parc. So, with the help of many volunteers there a been a huge boost to the number of climbs and cliffs accessible to climbing. The result is that there are now over 5 areas with over 130climbs.
Approaching the climbs can only be done by boat. A canoe approach can be up to 4 hours. It is therefore common practice for climbers to camp on one of the many islands at the designated camping spots. For all information on access to the Parc and camping reservations please consult the parc’s webpage at: www.poissonblanc.ca
Climbing in the parc is a unique experience, and it is a privilege to have access to such a magnificent and natural place. Therefore, please respect all parc policies concerning reservations and access.
Have a great adventure!
Québec: Escalade Parc Régional du Poisson Blanc Guidebook by Socrate Badeau was last modified: November 1st, 2023 by todd
There’s a lot of places to climb in the Front Range of Colorado, but Castlewood Canyon State Park is unique among them all. The first reason is its location; Castlewood is one of the few climbing areas in the front range, that is not actually in the mountains. It sits out in the plains to the east of Castle Rock, about 45 minutes from Denver.
Mike Burdon running it out above some gear on Another World (5.11a PG13).Photo by Joe Lovin
Jacob Peyton on Bozo No No (5.11b)
Joe Lovin sending The Travesty (5.12d). Photo by Mike Burdon.jpeg
Mike Burdon highballing on Daddy Cool (V2 X). Photo by Aleks Grocic
Chris Lopez on Phalloid Void (5.10c). Photo by Mike Burdon
Megan Lee on Outer Mongolia (5.10b). Photo. by Mike Burdon
Castlewood is also unique in its rock type. While a variety of sandstones, granite, gneiss and basalt can all be found in the Front Range, this is one of the only places to climb on conglomerate. This style can be tricky at first, but super fun and rewarding for those who have spent some time with it. It involves cranking on cobbles, sinker pockets, crisp edges, beautiful alligator skin and some wild looking features!
Castlewood has long been known for its bouldering, which is fantastic in both quality and quantity. As a previous guidebook author once marveled, the bouldering here is “inexhaustible!”
The more one seeks, the more one finds! But Castlewood is not only a bouldering area! There are over 130 sport routes, more than 200 trad climbs and still tons of potential for new routes of every style.
Due to its proximity to Denver, Castlewood has been a popular recreation spot for families and beginner climbers. On any given Saturday you’ll see a bunch of families toproping at the Grocery Store Wall, or the Boy Scouts out learning to rappel. Recently, however, there has also been a resurgence of more serious climbers, realizing the park’s untapped potential for new sport climbs, hard boulders and serious trad climbs. In the last year there have been many new routes developed; trad climbs as hard as 12a R, sport climbs up to 13a and boulders in the double digits! Castlewood is not just for kids.
The Wood also provides an opportunity to get off the beaten path. As crags like Canal Zone and the Graveyard are becoming increasingly overrun with the ever-growing number of Denver climbers, Castlewood Canyon remains a place of scenic solitude, where one can enjoy a quiet climbing experience away from the crowds and highways.
So whether you’re looking for some adventure and exploring, bolt protected pocket-pulling, cranking on cobbles, or a chill day in the forest, Castlewood has what you’re looking for and I hope this guidebook helps you find it.
The Wood: Climbing in Castlewood Canyon by Mike Burdon was last modified: April 20th, 2023 by makb
Back in 93, when Troy Johnson and I made our first pilgrimage to Smoke Hole Canyon, there was a ragged piece of white tat hanging from a rusted piton up in the deep green Entrance Arch dihedral that would eventually become the start of Hunting Unicorns. Climbing, long slumbering in the shadows, had returned to Smoke Hole Canyon.
Connor Pace turning the roof on Hunting Unicorns, Entrance ArchA Drop in the Ocean, Copperhead CoveJake Hill in Spring Colors
The first bolted lines would go up in Copperhead Cove soon thereafter, including Faces in Stone and the start of Bad Drugs. Then other routes at other canyon crags called us away, and the challenges of access between floods kept us away. We scattered to the four corners in 1995, and I spent six years exploring the Four Corners region.
In 2009, Cindy Bender and I put up our first route together on a tall, roof stacked corner in the Cove, and called it Going on a Bender. In 2011, we moved to Arizona, and the Cove went back undercover.
Flash forward to 2017; I returned to cleaning and drilling lines at the Cove and Jake Hill with Michael Holmes, J. and Ben Feher. More recently, Virginia activist Mitchell Goldman joined the fun, adding the mixed lines Flagman and ADrop in the Ocean.
Today, three decades after Troy and I first drove into the Canyon, the Entrance Arch has 30 routes of its own, with 16 more lines waiting at Copperhead Cove, and 9 instant classics at Jake Hill.
If you are a new Smoke Hole climber or have not previously downloaded the guides, grab them today to get the best tools for exploring Smoke Hole’s crags, old and new. Your purchases help support trail work and other stewardship efforts in the canyon and at nearby Reed’s Creek, while giving you all the best beta on route development, camping, parking and access issues.
Come explore the best of the old, and the new, at the Entrance Walls of Smoke Hole Canyon.
Smoke Hole Canyon: Entrance Walls, Copperhead Cove and Jake Hill was last modified: March 18th, 2023 by Mike Gray
Last Chance Canyon is a true gem of New Mexico climbing. Located deep in the Lincoln National Forest and with the closest “town” being the very small community of Queen (population 50 and formally classified as a ghost town) the feel of the area is remote, isolated and very peaceful. The canyon’s limestones walls hold over 100 routes, in the range of 5.3-5.13+ from thin vertical face routes to jaw dropping jug hauls out monstrous caves the place has something for everyone of all abilities. The limestone within the canyon varies in quality from average to bullet hard top tier seemingly belonging in Spain, the majority of established routes are on fantastic stone. All of these goods are spread out over 16 crags amongst the beautiful winding canyon floor and relatively close together, once in the canyon (10-15min walk) it’s never very far from one crag to the next.
Last Chance Canyon Sits at 5,706ft altitude, In the summers it can be much too hot for climbing but in the fall, winter and spring it is prime time, because of the nature of the twist and turns of the canyon there is always a wall you can go to for sun or shade no matter the time of day depending on your preference. These attributes coupled with the remoteness of the area make this a fantastic stop for the winter climbing road tripper, ample sun, good rock and no crowds what more could one ask for.
If planning on staying at the canyon for longer than a day a few things to keep in mind. There is no water or toilets so come prepared. The nearest larger town is Carlsbad 1 hours’ drive away which has all the supplies you could need. The dirt road leading to the parking/camping area is rocky but generally passable by all vehicle types with proper driving, I witnessed a very new very low BMW creep its way into the park lot one morning. Don’t miss checking out this beautiful and unique area, you will not be disappointed.
The gaping maw of “The Hueco Cave”Stu Smith on It puts The Buff On 5.13Nicole Deuchar on Solstice 5.12
Last Chance Canyon New Mexico Rock Climbing by Stu Smith was last modified: November 22nd, 2022 by squamishstu
Le Grand Morne est la fameuse paroi mystérieuse de la Beauce. Communément appelé le Morne par les locaux, on peut considérer ce site comme le joyau de la région. L’escalade au Morne est unique. C’est une falaise du terroir vertical qu’on ne retrouve nulle part ailleurs. Le Morne c’est un rocher volcanique surprenant avec plein de formes et de prises cachées. Grimper au Morne, c’est accepter de se perdre dans une lecture d’itinéraires déroutantes. On y trouve des voies multi longueurs avec de l’ambiance et une gestuelle variée et complexe. En plus, il vous faudra savoir trouver les placements de protection dans cette escalade majoritairement traditionnelle. Vous voilà avec un grand cru d’escalade bien épicé qui demande temps et patience avant d’en apprécier toute la subtilité. Le Morne est une montagne à approcher avec respect et qui permet de développer le sens de l’itinéraire et de l’engagement. Prenez le temps de découvrir le Morne grâce à ce topo qui contient plus de 250 photos et une description complète de toute les voies (plus de 280 voies, 375 longueurs) d’escalade qui sillonnent la paroi. Les bénévoles du CEMA sont toujours au travail, attendez-vous à des mises à jour de façon régulière.
Nicolas Rodrigue on Incognito 5.10a photo credit Quentin Orain.Nicolas Rodrigue on La Piquette 5.8+photo credit Quentain Orain.Olivier Plante on Piles Non incluses 5.12+ photo crédit Nicolas Rodrigue.Nicolas Rodrigue at the office drilling new anchor Grand Morne photo credit Matéo Arnaldi.
Québec: Grand Morne Rock Climbing by Nicolas Rodrigue was last modified: June 20th, 2023 by nicomorne
