Picture this: tranquil village location, quiet spring of water flowing by, green leaves lightly waving in the breeze, all setting up the stage for some fantastic single pitch cragging on unique rock in an exotic country…and oh yeah, don’t forget having this small climbing paradise all to yourself. If that interests you, I have just described one of Morocco’s small climbing treasures, Ain Belmusk. Located about 1 1/2 hours from Marrakech, Ain Belmusk offers a memorable day trip from the busy city and invites you to see and experience a side of Morocco that most visitors never see. You quickly move from highway, to an adventurous dirt road through villages, and with a five minute approach, you are at the base of numerous inspiring routes ranging from 5.8 up to 5.12a.
Ain Belmusk is home to some of the best single pitch sport climbing near Marrakech and also offers opportunities for new routing and single pitch trad climbing. Ain Belmusk is one of the original climbing areas developed by the French Alpine Club and be warned, some routes are a bit sandbagged. But fear not, you will not be disappointed with the remarkable routes Ain Belmusk has to offer. With the exception of an occasional shepherd sighting, or a village passerby, you will most likely have the climbing site all to yourself…no lines, no hassle. Just peaceful Moroccan tranquility…it’s magical. There is top access to almost every climb which is nice if you would prefer to top rope and get a feel for the area. And there are fun climbing options on both sides of the small spring offering climbing in both the sun and shade.
Finding Ain Belmusk can be a bit tricky, especially for first time visitors, which is why the rakkup Ain Belmusk guide is so incredibly helpful utilizing the turn by turn gps technology. Ain Belmusk has been home to many of my personal climbing projects over the last couple of years and has provided me a nice break from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech. There is nothing better than walking in to Ain Belmusk early in the morning, watching the light slowly paint the rock as you rack up and set off on your first route of the day. This is a must climb location for anyone looking to get their rock fix for a day or two while on holiday in Marrakech.