Synthia Laurin assuré par Jean Luc Vanakers dans la dalle centre (5.5)
Le CEMA et la FQME sommes fiers et heureux de vous présenter un premier site d’escalade dans la région de Saint-Léon-de-Standon surnommé «petite Suisse». Cette région offre des paysages montagneux magnifiques. La Montagne du Soleil Couchant orienté face nord sera un oasis de fraicheur dans nos étés québécois chauds et humides. Le topo contient une trentaine de voie de 5.5 à 5.12 + fraichement équipé sur scellement. Le rocher volcanique de Saint Léon est particulier avec plein des belles prises et de trous. L’escalade accessible majoritairement uniquement en premier de cordée est de type sportif avec quelques voies trad classiques. Ce topo contient toutes les informations pour profiter de ce nouveau site. Ce topo sera éventuellement bonifié par l’ajout de d’autre site et secteur selon l’avancement des négociations et travaux du CEMA. Merci de nous encourager.
Synthia Laurin dans Apporte tes gros chico (5.9)Yves Granger première ascension de Apporte tes gros chico (5.9)
Québec: Saint-Léon-de-Standon Rock Climbing by Nicolas Rodrigue was last modified: September 14th, 2022 by nicomorne
Located under two hours from Anchorage, the season for climbing in Hatcher Pass may be short but one not to be missed. One of the best crags in Alaska, it boasts over 500 routes in multiple valleys of granite in an alpine setting where rolling green tundra contrasts against the dark gray bands of rock.
Todd Helgeson on The Romanian Hi-Step (5.12d) on the Gargoyle, climbing at midnight.
Prior to the mid 2000’s, Hatcher Pass was primarily old buttonhead bolts, cracks filled with moss, and a decent amount of runouts. The last ten years a few dedicated individuals led by the rebolting efforts of Kelsey Gray and Chris Williams and with support from their own wallets as well as the American Safe Climbing Association, have drastically changed the landscape of climbing in Hatcher. Many of the old buttonhead bolts are gone and replaced with stainless steel bolts and anchors. Old webbing that was once crusted with lichen, is now chain and rings. The return of larger numbers of climbers to Hatcher than ushered in a flurry of development across the valley with new crags and routes appearing every season. What was once an obscure area frequented by the experienced or those who already had knowledge of the area, is now a place where climbers of all levels can enjoy and learn.
Looking down Reed Valley from the Nugget Boulder.
Some of the highlights of the valley are areas such as Snowbird Slab, which includes routes from one to three pitches but has the greatest concentration of lines in the valley. 28 routes with grades from 5.6-5.10d make it a perfect day crag for getting lots of moderate lines. Other crags such as the Lost Wall or Renaissance Wall will test many climbers’ strength and abilities and the strongest may visit the Gargoyle for the full test. Don’t forget to bring your rack as well as quickdraws, while there are an increasing number of sport routes most of the lines will need at least one piece of gear and there are a lot of excellent trad climbs. A 70m rope is ideal but a 60m will work for many climbs.
Regan Marin leading Snowflake (5.8) on Snowbird Slab. A route that has been climbed since the late 70’s.
The best season to visit is from Mid-June when the gate to Archangel Valley opens, and Mid-September when you can expect colder temperatures and the occasional snow. Boulderers will find the seasons to be longer as the snow landings can provide some excellent landings on taller problems. July is usually when the weather is best and the most climbers can be found.
Ben Olwell climbing Shelter in Place (5.9) at The Ramparts.
Don’t let a trip to Alaska go by without at least a visit to this beautiful area.
The imposing face of the Renaissance Wall in Independence Valley, Hatcher Pass.
Hatcher Pass Alaska Rock Climbing by Kelsey Gray was last modified: March 9th, 2022 by Prezwoodz
The gorge formed by the mighty Potomac River, carved a climbing area later to be a National Park just about a ba-zillion years ago. Great Falls National Park has a visitor’s center and several magnificent overlooks from which to view the spectacle of the great falls of the Potomac; even bigger during the spring runoff. Climbers and white-water kayakers alike are drawn to this beautifully secluded national park, one of many, just minutes from our Nation’s Capitol.
The rock climbing at the park is mostly on the Virginia side but there are a number of routes on the Maryland side as well. Most folks come for the top-roping since ropes are easily setup and the views are tremendous. Trad climbing and to a lesser degree aid climbing is not normally done since the shiest rock is brittle and easily flakes and breaks.
Ally on top of Diagonal (5.9-) at Aid Box.
A modest fee is collected at the ranger’s booth but those who frequent the park purchase seasonal or yearly passes. The comprehensive but expensive Annual National Parks is valid; however, a cheaper annual C&O Canal Parks pass is also available.
Since most climbers’ top rope here you will mostly need gear for building anchors at the cliff tops. Warning: rock along the river generally does not hold trad gear, and it is recommended that climbers sling trees and rocks instead!
Marc climbing Snowflake (5.6) at Seclusion.
Although the Park Service has decided to not allow the placement of permanent hardware in this part of the country, i.e. bolted anchors, adequate protection is achieved using the natural protection found in trees, blocks, and rock. Many routes have adequate rock for placing pro as backup.
Be gentle on the trees please! They see lots of use. This means don’t saw the bark off by pulling webbing and ropes around them. Try not to compact root soil, stand on rock if possible. Soil erosion and the health of these trees is one area that the park is intensely focused on and, rightly or wrongly, much of the stress these cliff top trees are seeing is being attributed to us climbers.
Note: The park service is reviewing the impact of climbing and climbers throughout the gorge. PLEASE minimize your impact when moving around on top of and on the climbs. Observe all fencing and restrictions. The park has been very responsive to climber concerns over closures and has in all but a very few cases provided opening in fences to access the cliff tops for us. Consider being a good custodian and packing out an extra bag of trash from the cliff bases.
Great Falls National Park Rock Climbing was last modified: February 18th, 2022 by Marc Grunberg
Le Parc des Grands-Jardins et la Zec des Martres est un terrain d’aventure dépaysant à 15 minutes de St-Urbain. Venez grimper des voies mémorables dans un environnement grandiose! La nouvelle version du topo sur rakkup contient 125 voies (+ de 300 longueurs de corde), 160 photos et des informations détaillées sur les différentes voies, dont 23 nouvelles. Cette App nous permettra de faire des mises à jour régulières sans avoir à tout renuméroter et refaire la mise en page du texte et des photos. Impossible de se perdre grâce aux cartes GPS, vous pourrez accéder sans tarder aux classiques!
Benoit Dubois dans la 1è du Bras Canadien, 5.12a
Dane Duplessis dans Temps de cure, 5.10+
Tom Canac dans Le Dôme Deluxe, 5.7
Mélissa Tremblay dans Harmonie intérieure, 5.10+
Christophe Coulombe dans Tressaillements externes, 5.11d 1
Québec: Parc National des Grands-Jardins Rock Climbing by Benoit Dubois was last modified: March 25th, 2021 by Benoit Dubois
Most people don’t know what to expect from a visit to the Sultanate of Oman. In fact, many people would struggle to position Oman on the map. Certainly, most people won’t be expecting to discover a diverse country with high mountains, a long rugged coastline, and of course plenty of desert. Muscat, the capital, sits between one of the coastal mountain chains and the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. What’s more, the Omani people live up to their friendly reputation, held throughout the Gulf region. This new guide documents the fantastic deep-water soloing opportunities found along the Muscat coastline.
Gold Mine sector Qantab.
Read on Arete de Tete F6b Qantab.
DWS has never been as convenient as it is in Muscat. You can literally take a taxi to the beach, swim to the rocks, and starts climbing straight out of the water if you wish. You don’t need any tricky logistics or specialist gear in order to start exploring these cliffs, although some planning and gear will allow access to the more complex sectors (and this guide explains how). With such easy access and friendly cliffs, Muscat is the perfect place to have your first DWS experience.
Jon on Arete de Tete F6b, Qantab.
Read and Larry dismounting at Qantab.
DWS can be done year-round, although the hot and calm early summer (April-June) and later summer (September-November) months are considered best by local climbers. There are crags and sectors for all conditions, sun and shade, sheltered and open, high and low tide. There are tall exhilarating faces, deep caves, expedition-like traverses and plenty of friendly low-balls. Over 200 routes and boulder problems up to V7 and F8a (5.13b) have been developed so far, with potential much for more.
Jamie on Flying High F6a, Qantab.
Janna on Crimpy Traverse V0, Ras al Hamra.
The guide covers three main cliffs. Hire a boat from Qantab, a sleepy fishing village just outside Muscat, to access the tall and spread-out cliffs of Bar al Jissah. This area was the first to be developed, documented and published (thanks to Vincent van Engelen, Read Macadam and Jakob Oberhauser). The cliffs of Ras al Hamra are a short paddle from a downtown public beach and offer a friendly introduction to the sport, plus a few test-pieces. Nearby Qurum cliffs can be reached with a quick swim and provide several testing caves and shady faces to escape the hot summer sun. The new guide documents the latter two crags for the first time.
Jamie on Daylight Robbery V6, Ras al Hamra.
Jamie on Cheap Thrills F6c+.
For a climbing trip unlike any other, try DWS Muscat.
Jamie on Bloody Mary V5, Ras al Hamra.
Jamie on Qurum Cave Right V6, Qurum.
Oman: Deep-water Soloing Muscat Area by Jamie Moss and Larry Michienzi was last modified: November 18th, 2020 by Jamie Moss
Weir, who in Quebec has never heard of it… I mean everyone goes there in February. You can even climb in December if the sun is out! The climbing is hard face, and the cracks pass though roofs. Chris Sharma apparently climbed LE Capitain but he just crimped the heck out of it and didn’t use the good holds!! There are only one or two easy climbs and they are all multi-pitches and exposed! I heard that Peter Croft soloed Black and White!
Simon Brunette on an early season attempt of Biorythme 12d(credit Patrick Cadieux)
If you heard one you heard em all! Are they true or just myths! Well that is for a bear around the fireplace! What is important is that there is A LOT more to Weir than you’ve heard. Slowly but surely over the past few years Weir has had a facelift. There are now whole areas of moderate sport and trad climbs. What was often dirty and sketchy is now clean and fun.
Peewee (Jean-Pierre Ouelette) belaying Alexandre Brunel on 5 Km 13c-d (credit Steve Bourdeau)
Come explore and discover for the first time or maybe even rediscover all that Weir has to offer. Get of the beaten path and have fun climbing the new and older classic climbs.
Starting the 2nd pitch of the classic Black and White 5.11a (credit Patrick Cadieux)
Weir, qui au Québec n’a pas entendu parler de Weir. C’est LE spot au printemps. Certains y grimpent même en décembre quand le soleil et la température sont au rendez-vous! La grimpe c’est de la face dure, et les fissures passent des toits. Il y a seulement une ou deux voies faciles et ce sont des multi-longueurs engagées! Les rumeurs sur Weir abondent, Chris Sharma aurait grimpé la voie Du Capitaine en crimpant sans prendre les inversées. Peter Croft aurait fait Black and White en solo intégral.
Marco Lazure on the final moves of the direct finish of Marie 4 Poches 11a (credit Patrick Cadieux)
Si vous en avez entendu une, vous les avez toutes entendues!!! Sont-elles vraies ou des mythes, ça, c’est pour les soirs autour d’un feu avec un bon verre entre les mains. Mais ce qui est important, c’est qu’il y a BEAUCOUP plus à Weir que vous avez entendu! Tranquillement au cours des dernières années Weir a eu une cure de rajeunissement. De nouvelles voies ont été ouvertes. Il y a maintenant des secteurs entiers de voies sport et trad modérés. Les voies sales et épeurantes sont rendues propres et plaisantes. Venez explorer et découvrir ou redécouvrir Weir. Venez surtout vous amuser à grimper tout ce que Weir a à vous offrir.
Mireille Trempe on Romania 11c (credit Patrick Cadieux)
Belay on the 2nd pitch with the dishes in the background(credit Patrick Cadieux)
Socrate Badeau on Magyar 12c (credit Steve Bourdeau)
John Leblond on Fait dans ton Froc 12a (credit Steve Bourdeau)
Québec: Mont Larose (Weir) Rock Climbing by Socrate Badeau was last modified: August 12th, 2020 by socratebadeau
