Rose Ledge 2.0 Rock Climbing Guidebook

Rose Ledge 2.0 Rock Climbing Guidebook

Rose Ledge 2.0
by José Molina & Kai Webler & Jon LaValley
The El Dojo Facebook
Scrapplesoda Facebook
Montague Bouldering Guidebook

A helpful little guide to get you around the routes and boulders of Rose Ledge. This guide contains current, detailed beta on the best that Rose Ledge has to offer*.

Rose has something for everyone, and probably much more than you thought! Some of New England’s best boulder problems, heady leads on gear, and fun topropes are all here! Beat the crowds at Farley and enjoy some great little climbs!

*Full disclosure: It also contains beta on total garbage

Montague Bouldering Guidebook

Montague Bouldering Guidebook

Montague Bouldering
by José Molina & Paul Handlen
The El Dojo Facebook
Scrapplesoda Facebook
Rose Ledge 2.0 Guidebook

Montague Bouldering contains the most complete and accurate beta you will ever find for the Hideaway and the Happy Valley, and the only guide on Earth to the Frost Giants and the Baby Cave! Whether or not you know it yet, you can’t live without this guide! These are some of New England’s best boulders! Montague is hiding ~100 gneiss problems, and has something for everyone! Comfortable easy problems in a variety of styles – check! New England classic moderates – check! Power tests – check! Committing highballs – more than you can handle, you sissy! Projects that will spit you off and kick sand on you in front of your best girl? Yes sir!

For God’s sake, just look at the cover and tell me that problem doesn’t look good! There’s more where that came from!

Are you saying to yourself, “I don’t want another climbing guide with an impossibly crappy map!” We got you – with our GPS maps, you will get from the car to every sector and problem without any of the Blair Witch episodes that Montague is famous for!

Are you saying to yourself, “Yeah but guys, I don’t even know what or where half the problems are when I get there! Other guides have awful topos!” Well, we have topo photos for every problem! Find your new proj with ease with Montague Bouldering!

But don’t take our word for it! Try our free sample! This is the guide that will change your life! Or at least help you find a new rock to climb on! Which might be the same thing, depending on your climbing OCD.

All author proceeds will be donated to the Western Mass Vertical Training Cooperative, better known to locals as the El Dojo.

Ontario: Devil’s Glen Rock Climbing Guidebook

Ontario: Devil’s Glen Rock Climbing Guidebook

Devil’s Glen
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
OntarioClimbing.com Facebook

Ontario Guidebooks: Lion’s Head | Metcalfe | Mount Nemo | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

With some of the best rock in the Beaver Valley, Devil’s Glen offers a wide range of exceptional sport and trad climbing opportunities. New climbers can enjoy the many moderate bolted routes, while more experienced climbers can push their limits on the numerous 5.13s. As one of the older established crags in the region, Devil’s Glen also has a large number of excellent traditional climbs. While some walls may be too warm in the summer due to the cliff’s southern exposure, the dense tree canopy provides plenty of opportunities to climb in more comfortable conditions.

Ontario: Old Baldy Rock Climbing Guidebook

Ontario: Old Baldy Rock Climbing Guidebook

Old Baldy
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
OntarioClimbing.com Facebook

 
Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Lion’s Head | Metcalfe | Mount Nemo | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

With its impeccable white walls and dramatic position overlooking the Beaver Valley, Old Baldy is one of Ontario’s top sport climbing areas. The sun-drenched nature of the majority of the cliff combined with the relatively open base ensures that Old Baldy is great option both early and late in the season. In warmer weather, the Black Forest area offers some much-appreciated relief from the sun’s scorching rays. While sport climbing is the crag’s main draw, there are some notable trad climbing opportunities scattered across the cliff. Toss in a short and relatively easy approach, and becomes apparent why Old Baldy is such a popular cliff.

Ontario: Lion’s Head Rock Climbing Guidebook

Ontario: Lion’s Head Rock Climbing Guidebook

Lion’s Head
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
OntarioClimbing.com Facebook

Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Metcalfe | Mount Nemo | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

With its spectacular views of Georgian Bay and immaculate limestone walls, Lion’s Head is truly the crown jewel of the Southern Ontario climbing scene. This massive cliff is home to many of the best and hardest sport routes in the province. Thanks to its northern location and proximity to Georgian Bay, climbing at Lion’s Head is viable even in the peak summer heat. While sport climbing is the main draw at this cliff, the area also has a surprising number of high-quality traditional climbs. It’s worth noting that a significant number of routes at this crag have hanging belays and can only be accessed by rappel; this is not a conventional easy-access sport crag and it’s definitely not a great first choice for climbers just venturing out from the gym. But with the proper skills, Lion’s Head is an exceptional climbing area that offers stunning climbing opportunities for anyone with an appropriate level of experience.

Ontario: Metcalfe Rock Climbing Guidebook

Ontario: Metcalfe Rock Climbing Guidebook

Metcalfe
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
OntarioClimbing.com Facebook

 
Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Lion’s Head | Mount Nemo | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

As one of Ontario’s older crags, Metcalfe Rock has an excellent assortment of trad and sport climbs. Recently, the cliff has seen a flurry of new activity as climbers have re-bolted old mixed-gear lines into modern sport routes. At the same, a few dedicated climbers have been busy establishing an impressive number of new moderate sport routes. The combination of new and updated climbs have transformed Metcalfe Rock into the perfect crag for any beginner-to-intermediate sport or trad climber.

Ontario: The Swamp Rock Climbing Guidebook

Ontario: The Swamp Rock Climbing Guidebook

The Swamp
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
OntarioClimbing.com Facebook

 
Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Lion’s Head | Metcalfe | Mount Nemo | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake

With approximately 150 routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.13, The Swamp is one of Ontario’s most popular climbing areas. While many climbers tend to associate the crag with sport climbing, the cliff also has a number of exceptional moderate traditional climbs. As a relatively new area, the crag has been developed to modern standards with stainless hardware, appropriately spaced bolts and proper anchors on almost every route. The Swamp’s southern exposure makes this a great cliff during cooler spring and fall conditions.

Ontario: Mount Nemo Rock Climbing Guidebook

Ontario: Mount Nemo Rock Climbing Guidebook

Mount Nemo
by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer
Ontario Climbing
OntarioClimbing.com Facebook

 
Ontario Guidebooks: Devil’s Glen | Lion’s Head | Metcalfe | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake | The Swamp

Located just 45 minutes from Toronto, Mount Nemo is the premier crag in the Milton region. The over-2km long cliff has more than 350 routes ranging from easy 5.fun trad adventures to challenging 5.12 sport classics. And thanks to the recent re-equipping of Nemo’s many older routes, the cliff now also offers a significant number of moderate sport climbs. The crag’s northern aspect ensures cool conditions making this an ideal climbing area during warmer weather.

Madrone & Carver Cliffs Rock Climbing Guidebook

Madrone & Carver Cliffs Rock Climbing Guidebook

Madrone & Carver Cliffs
by Micah Klesick & Kyle Yeager
Columbia Gorge Guides
CGG Facebook
Ozone Cliff Band Guidebook | Mt. Hood Guidebook

This guide features the newly opened Madrone Wall, which has been closed for almost 20 years! Loaded with excellent trad and sport routes, this wall will soon be back to being one of the most popular crags in the Portland area.
Also included in the guide is Carver Cliff, which is located only a few minutes away from Madrone.

Ozone Dropzone/Farside Stratosphere Rock Climbing Guidebook

Ozone Dropzone/Farside Stratosphere Rock Climbing Guidebook

Ozone Cliffband including Dropzone and Stratosphere
by Micah Klesick & Elmo Mecsko
Columbia Gorge Guides
CGG Facebook
Mt. Hood Crags Guidebook | Madrone & Carver Guidebook

The Ozone cliff band consists of three different cliffs, all comprised of the same band of quality rock, ranging from 40′ tall to over 120′ tall, and all three cliffs are somewhat connected by a rough trail system. Ozone Cliff is certainly the most popular cliff of the three cliffs, and quite possibly the most popular cliff in the Portland area. While they are comprised of the same rock, Dropzone/Farside and Stratosphere are less popular, Dropzone/Farside due to being mostly traditionally protected lines, and Stratosphere simply because it is newer and a little further from the parking.
When sampling the excellent climbing here, it is recommended to have at least some trad gear with you, as many of the routes need one or more pieces of gear to safely ascend them.