Saguenay Québec Rock Climbing by Pierre-Y Plourde (English follows French)

Il a débuté vers le milieu des années 50 au Cap Trinité, la paroi la plus impressionnante le long du fjord. Jean Sylvain, accompagné de grimpeurs de Québec et de Montréal, fut l’instigateur principal des premières tentatives. Une première ascension a été réalisée par une équipe allemande grâce à de l’équipement laissé en paroi par les tentatives de Jean Sylvain et ses compagnons de cordée lors d’une tentative en 1964. Plus tard, Jean Syl- vain, Pierre Vézina et André Robert ont réussi en 1967 une première dans la partie la plus haute de ce mur de 300 mètres, la Directissime. Cette as- cension représentait un exploit formidable et elle a attiré l’intérêt des autres grimpeurs du Québec et d’ailleurs.

Le Cap Trinité à Rivière Éternité
Le Cap Trinité à Rivière Éternité

Parallèlement à cet exploration dans le Bas Saguenay, Jean Allard, un grimpeur de la région de Sherbrooke, réalise en 1962 une première voie, Les Pionniers, sur le Cran Carré à Sainte- Rose-du-Nord. D’autres voies ont été ouvertes plus tard sur une paroi en bordure du village par, entre autres, Dominic Villeneuve et Florian Girard. Le Dièdre constitue la voie la plus difficile.

Le Cran carré à Sainte-Rose-du-Nord
Le Cran carré à Sainte-Rose-du-Nord

En 1970, François-Xavier Garneau, arrivé de l’Ouest canadien, constate l’énorme potentiel de Chicoutimi et des villes environnantes. Il s’est joint à Gilbert Touzot et André Vallée pour intensifier le développement de l’escalade par l’aménagement de nouvelles parois et l’ouverture de nouvelles voies. Quelques années plus tard, Régis Richard s’est installé à Chicoutimi et ce grimpeur talen- tueux a beaucoup contribué au développement du Club de montagne et de l’escalade au Sague- nay.

Le secteur de la Croix à Chicoutimi
Le secteur de la Croix à Chicoutimi

Une explosion de nouvelles voies en 1987, sous l’impulsion de Joël Tremblay, Steve Jomphe, Hu- bert Morin, Mario Bilodeau et Sylvain Malche- losse, a conduit à la publication d’un premier livre-guide en 1988 par François-Xavier Garneau.

Hubert Morin au Parapluie (© Alain Dumas)
Hubert Morin au Parapluie (© Alain Dumas)

Une douzaine d’années plus tard, un phénomène remarquable, l’escalade sportive sur plaquettes, s’installe au Saguenay, rendant abordables des parois, considérées jadis, comme inaccessibles. Ce nouveau type d’escalade, issu des murs inté- rieurs, a suscité un réel engouement se traduisant par l’ouverture de nouvelles voies par un nombre croissant de jeunes grimpeurs dont Jacques Filion, Pierre-Y. Plourde, Cornelia Krause, Éric Tremblay et Gilles Simard entre autres. On assiste en même temps à l’ouverture de voies d’escalade artifi- cielles par un groupe restreint de grimpeurs dont Yves Larouche, Yanick Duguay, Denis Boudreau, Jean-Philippe Villemaire, Pierre Raymond et Pa- trice Morin. Une deuxième édition du livre-guide est publiée en 1998 par François-Xavier Garneau et Pierre-Y. Plourde.

Éric Tremblay aux Marshmallows
Éric Tremblay aux Marshmallows

À la fin des années quatre-vingt dix, une partie du potentiel de l’arrondissement La Baie apparaît sous l’impulsion d’Éric Lalancette, d’Alain Martin et de Patrice Morin.

La paroi Régis-Richard à La Baie
La paroi Régis-Richard à La Baie

L’escalade est demeurée toujours populaire et la nouvelle vague de grimpeurs, les Simon La- brecque, feu Raphaël Gagné, Marc Durepos, Charles Munger, Alain Couture, Simon Létour- neau, Olivier Tremblay, Éric Lemieux, Benoit Chayer et Jean-Philippe Fafard contribuent à leur façon au rayonnement de la région.

Raphaël Gagné au Naufragé
Raphaël Gagné au Naufragé

La mise à jour actuelle des « Parois du Saguenay », dont la dernière édition remonte à 2007, permet de souligner le dévouement remarquable d’une nouvelle génération de grimpeurs. Les efforts de feu Dominic Morin et de Nicolas Gaudreault ont sérieusement rehaussé le niveau de difficulté des voies dans les arrondissements de Chicoutimi et de Jonquière. La paroi du Parapluie est mainte- nant un incontournable pour les voies de haut ni- veau.

Stéphane Perron au Cap Trinité (© Mathilde Gélinas)
Stéphane Perron au Cap Trinité (© Mathilde Gélinas)

Stéphane Perron a laissé sa carte de visite en étant l’instigateur de superbes nouvelles voies multi-longueurs dans la section moins haute du Cap Trinité vers les années 2010. À cela s’ajoute les efforts formidables déployés depuis 2013 par le Club de Montagne du Saguenay (CMS) et la Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l’escalade pour développer le Cap à l’Aigle sur la rive sud du Lac Kénogami. Parmi les multiples protagonistes, pensons à Jean-Luc Vanacker, Nicolas Rodrigue, Éric Laflamme, Patrice Morin, Jean-Philippe Fafard et Dominic Gagnon. Enfin, et non pas les moindres, Marc Durepos, Cathe- rine Picard et plein d’autres pour leur incroyable détermination à développer le potentiel inouï du Trou du Chaos à l’Anse-Saint-Jean.

ENGLISH BEGINS HERE

It began in the mid fifties in Cap Trinité, the most impressive wall along the fjord. Jean Sylvain, accompanied by climbers from Quebec and Montreal, was the main instigator of the first attempts. A first climb was made by a German team thanks to the equipment left in the wall by the prior attempts of Sylvain and his companions in 1964. Later, Jean Sylvain, Pierre Vézina and André Robert made in 1967 the first of the «Directissime» in the highest part of this 300 meters wall. This climb was a tremendous feat and attracted the interest of other climbers from Quebec and elsewhere.

The Cap Trinité at Rivière Éternité
The Cap Trinité at Rivière Éternité

 Alongside this exploration in the Lower Saguenay, Jean Allard, a climber from the Sherbrooke region, made the first ascent of Les Pionniers, in 1962 on the Cran Carré in Sainte-Rose-du-Nord. Other routes were later opened on a wall on the edge of the village by, among others, Dominic Villeneuve and Florian Girard. The dihedral is the most difficult route.

The Cran carré at Sainte-Rose-du-Nord
The Cran carré at Sainte-Rose-du-Nord

 In 1970, François-Xavier Garneau, who arrived from Western Canada, saw the enormous potential of Chicoutimi and the surrounding towns. He joined Gilbert Touzot and André Vallée to intensify the development of climbing by finding new walls and opening new lines. A few years later, Régis Richard moved to Chicoutimi and this talented climber contributed a lot to the development of the Club de Montagne du Saguenay and climbing in Saguenay region.

The secteur de la Croix at Chicoutimi
The secteur de la Croix at Chicoutimi

 An explosion of new climbs in 1987, led by Joel Tremblay, Steve Jomphe, Hubert Morin, Mario Bilodeau and Sylvain Malchelosse, led to the publication of a first guide book in 1988 by François-Xavier Garneau.

Hubert Morin at Parapluie (© Alain Dumas)
Hubert Morin at Parapluie (© Alain Dumas)

A dozen years later, the remarkable wave of sport climbing hit the Saguenay region, making blank walls, previously considered unclimbable, a reality. This new type of climbing, originating from indoor walls, has generated a real craze resulting in the opening of new routes by a growing number of young climbers including Jacques Filion, Pierre-Y. Plourde, Cornelia Krause, Eric Tremblay and Gilles Simard among others. At the same time, aid lines were still developed by a small group of talented climbers, including Yves Larouche, Yanick Duguay, Denis Boudreau, Jean-Philippe Villemaire, Pierre Raymond and Patrice Morin. A second edition of the guide-book is published in 1998 by François-Xavier Garneau and Pierre-Y. Plourde.

Éric Tremblay at Marshmallows
Éric Tremblay at Marshmallows

At the end of the nineties, part of the potential of the La Baie borough arose under the leadership of Éric Lalancette, Alain Martin and Patrice Morin. 

The paroi Régis-Richard at La Baie
The paroi Régis-Richard at La Baie

Rock climbing has continued to be popular and the new wave of climbers, Simon Labrecque, the late Raphaël Gagné, Marc Durepos, Charles Munger, Alain Couture, Simon Letourneau, Olivier Tremblay, Eric Lemieux, Benoit Chayer and Jean-Philippe Fafard contribute to popularize climbing in the region.

Raphaël Gagné at Naufragé
Raphaël Gagné at Naufragé

The current update of the «Parois du Saguenay», the last edition of which dates back to 2007, highlights the remarkable dedication of a new generation of climbers. Works by the late Dominic Morin and Nicolas Gaudreault have significantly increased the climbing level of difficulty in the boroughs of Chicoutimi and Jonquière. The «Parapluie» is now considered a must for high level climbing.

Stéphane Perron has left his mark by being the instigator of superb new multi-pitchs in the lower section of Cap Trinité towards the year 2010. 

Stéphane Perron at Cap Trinité (© Mathilde Gélinas)
Stéphane Perron at Cap Trinité (© Mathilde Gélinas)

Let’s mention also the tremendous work made since 2013 by le Club de Montagne du Saguenay (CMS) and la Fédération Québecoise de la Montagne et de l’Escalade to develop le Cap à l’Aigle on the south shore of Lake Kénogami. Among the many protagonists, Jean-Luc Vanacker, Nicolas Rodrigue, Eric Laflamme, Patrice Morin, Jean-Philippe Fafard and Dominic Gagnon. Finally, and not least, Marc Durepos, Catherine Picard and many others for their steady determination to develop the incredible potential of le Trou du Chaos in l’Anse-Saint-Jean. 

Liming China Rock Climbing by Mike Dobie

Rent, Buy or Bundle Liming Rock here: https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/liming-china-rock-climbing/

Nestled in the corner of China’s most southwest province, Yunnan, is an area of geological and cultural contrasts. The jungles of southeast Asia meet the Tibetan plateau and the far reaches of Himalayan mountains loom. The distinct ethnic groups from these varied lands co-habitat in rural villages of a province where the Southern Silk road and less famous Tea Horse Trail once passed. The gypsy market that pops up in Liming throughout the month is reminiscent of the region’s early days of trading… but now the ladies in their colorful traditional clothes use their smartphones to buy goods in a way more futuristic than most cities of the west.

Ana Pautler on Wind of the Valley, possibly the best 5.10 in Liming. Photo Danial Harata
Ana Pautler on Wind of the Valley, possibly the best 5.10 in Liming. Photo Danial Harata_

For the last decade, climbers have made pilgrimages to the valley to ascend the towering red sandstone walls protruding from steep, vegetated hills above a small village. There over 280 routes in 31 different sectors, and while the area gained its fame for the trad climbing, recent focus has been on the sport walls. To access most of the climbing, you’ll need to hike 45 minutes from town up steep terrain, but there are a handful of roadside trad and sport walls to give your legs some reprieve. The town offers several guest houses and restaurants serving up delicious stir-fries with local ingredients and cheap prices, making it a traveling climber’s or dirtbag’s paradise. While winter temperatures hover around freezing at night, the guest houses provide heated blankets. Alternatively, spring (March, April May) and fall (late September, October, November) offer more comfortable temperatures, though occasional rain. A handful of areas that will also stay dry. Summer (June-early September) is the monsoon season and it is not recommend to visit.

A travelling climber on a 5.11d splitter photo Thomas Senf
A traveling climber on a 5.11d splitter photo Thomas Senf

Routes range from 5.7-5.13+ and while it is helpful to know how to jam before arriving in Liming, The Great Owl and Charlie the Unicorn are classic 5.9s that’ll help you learn the essential skills. Scar Face and Wind of the Valley are favorite 5.10s, and from  there, the route quality only goes up. People have said Back to the Primitive (5.11, A0 8 pitches) is reason to cross an ocean. While Akum Ra (5.11) is a favorite single pitch. Japanese Cowboy and Another World are fantastically steep 5.12s and if you’re still looking for a bigger challenge, Logan Barber’s test pieces Firewall (5.13d) and Honeycomb Dome (5.13d+) should keep you busy for a while. And that’s just the trad climbing.

Brandon Guttong on the First Free Ascent of Japanese Cowboy 5.12. Photo Garrett Bradley
Brandon Guttong on the First Free Ascent of Japanese Cowboy 5.12. Photo Garrett Bradley

If you’re interested in clipping bolts, the Faraway guesthouse owner provides rides through a valley above the softer sandstone to a completely different environment of dolomitic sandstone. The rock resembles La Mojarra in Columbia and 12mm bolts are used in super hard sandstone with horizontal breaks, corners, pockets, and crimps. The sport areas (El Dorado and Goat Rodeo) are still cleaning up, but with more traffic, these are bound to be classic destinations. The walls are just overhung enough to stay dry in the rain, helping round out the shoulder season options. Golden Eyebrow is a newly bolted 5.10 classic following a corner, Gold Rush (5.11) has sporty moves straight outta the gym,  Gold, Gold, Everythang Gold (5.12) delivers big holds at an angle sure to pump you out, and Tibetan Cowboys in a Disco (5.13a) combines endurance and technique with an angle steep enough to keep you barley on your toes. Mike Dobie first visited the area in 2010 and has spent the majority of the last decade focused on developing new routes in Liming. His original partner was a Chinese climber named Zhoulei, but countless others have contributed to the area’s development scrubbing routes, bolting and re-bolting anchors, building trails, and more recently bolting sport lines. Dobie views his work as a service project to the climbing community globally. It is an area of fantastic potential, amazing scenery, and memorable climbing. It is a journey to get there, but well worth the effort.

Chris Miller on pitch 4 of Souls Awakening. Photo Garrett Bradley
Chris Miller on pitch 4 of Souls Awakening. Photo Garrett Bradley

Rent, Buy or Bundle Liming Rock here: https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/liming-china-rock-climbing/

Columbia Valley Rock Climbing by Bruno-Pierre Couture

Columbia Valley Rock Climbing get together after work. Photo credit Jack Caldbick
Columbia Valley Rock Climbing get together after work. Photo credit Jack Caldbick

As climbers we are now privileged time players who can enjoy these natural jewels. The climbing pioneers who explore the mountains around here shared their mettled spirit, with which they climbed the summits of the region, to the generations who followed them. Now, the new generation is exploring the territory with new eyes, discovering and rediscovering its places and trying to transmit their knowledge to share their spirit of adventure, so that future generations can enjoy the jewels this valley has to offer.

Throughout the years the Columbia Valley was the scene of many clashes, starting with the formation of the valley itself. A titanic battle of the elements created over many years the Columbia River fault that now separates the intriguing Purcells range from the indomitable Rockies mountains. This trench is the scene of spectacular rock formations. On one side the granite; pure, solid and straight pierces the earth’s crust and vibrates in us the names of the “Bubagoos”, “Leaning towers”, “Sally Serana”. While in the East the more friable limestone creates unique silhouettes such as “Goodsir Mountains”, “Rockwall”, “Flow Peak”, “White Tail” ….

Buy Bruno’s Columbia Valley Rock Climbing Guidebook here: https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/british-columbia-columbia-valley-rock-climbing/

La vallée de la Columbia fût le lieux de bien des affrontements, à commencer par la formation de la vallée elle-même. Un combat titanesque des éléments à créer au cours de longues années la faille de la rivière Columbia qui sépare maintenant l’intrigante chaîne de montagnes des Purcells de l’indomptables chaînes des Rocheuses. Cette tranchée est le théâtre de formations rocheuses spectaculaires. D’un côté le granite; pure, solide et droit perce l’écorce terrestre et fait vibrer en nous les noms de «Bubagoos», «Leaning towers», «Sally Serana». Tandis qu’à l’Est le calcaire plus friable crée des silhouettes uniques telle que les «monts Goodsir», le «Rockwall», «Flow peak», «White Tail», etc. En tant que grimpeurs nous sommes maintenant de privilégiés acteurs du temps qui  pouvons jouir de ces bijoux naturels. Les pionniers de l’escalade qui sont passés par ici ont su partager leur esprit fougueux avec lequel ils ont gravit les sommets de la région aux générations qui les suivirent. Maintenant, la nouvelle génération explore avec un nouvel œil le territoire, elle découvre et redécouvre ses endroits et tente de transmettre leur savoir pour partager leur esprit d’aventure, afin que les générations futures puissent profiter des joyaux que cette vallée a à offrir.

Backcountry Skiing Bridger Ridge by Sam Cox & Tavis Campbell

Every fall, skiers and snowboarders anxiously await the ritual of opening day at Bridger Bowl. The intricate lines incised into the mountain are a playground. As the season progresses and the snowfall begins to stack up, possibilities appear where previously only rock walls and scree fields existed. A blank canvas materializes and beckons riders to paint their own artistic vision upon it with the unique tracks they leave behind. Bridger is a special place that many people hold close to their hearts. It’s an area known for steep terrain, massive storm totals, dedicated locals and a distinct lack of commercial development in the base area. Over the generations, the lift infrastructure has changed and the ski area boundary has expanded, but the majesty and allure of The Ridge has remained the same. Although avalanche control is conducted by a professional patrol staff, a 457 khz avalanche transceiver is required to access the upper mountain. This area is the true gem of Bridger Bowl and completely devoid of grooming or trail markings. Founded in 1955, Bridger Bowl is a community institution that is managed by an association and run by a board of directors. The area itself is situated on the east side of the Bridger Mountains and benefits from orographic lift to create a micro-climate that produces legendary powder days. Buy the Bridger Ridge rakkup guidebook here: https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/backcountry-skiing-bridger-bowl/

Backcountry Skiing Crystal Mountain Washington by Matt Schonwald

Matt Schonwald out for a blue sky harvest in FF Forest. Photo by Trúc Nguyen Allen

Matt Schonwald out for a blue sky harvest in FF Forest. Photo by Trúc Nguyen Allen

Every December my excitement rises in anticipation of that chest deep blower run off Exterminator followed by a run out Northback then Southback then a few laps in FF Forest and Bullion before I hit the Elk with a perma grin. My first run in the NW over 30 years ago was the deepest day I had ever seen and I forgave the long lines and slow chairs as each run seared my brain like a brand that Crystal now owned my powder consciousness. Crystal sit in the sweet spot of the PNW, on the NE side of Mt Rainier giving it fantastic views and on the Pacific Crest straddling the East/West Divide. The altitude gives Crystal over 1,300’ above the rest of WA ski areas with its long ridge lines running from 6-7,000’, which is its best kept secret. Cold, stable, and even blower powder make touring worthy.

Matt Schonwald crashing the party at Party Knoll. Photo by Trúc Nguyen Allen

Matt Schonwald crashing the party at Party Knoll. Photo by Trúc Nguyen Allen

Skiers designed Crystal, they explored the area, took a few rides in avalanches before settling on the current spot. The founders brought over some Austrian to help develop the terrain and they even hosted a World Cup and National Championships in the 60’s. Like the story of Tatooine in Star Wars, Crystal faded from the public eye and as the lifts grew slow and unreliable, locals looked around the boundary and saw a gold mine. I spent 6 years living there as a ski patroller, waking up before sunrise to do control work excited to look out a see where I would tour next Year after year exploring a new bowl, a steep chute, and the Apres kept getting better as my friends would gather around the pitcher hatching the next adventure.

Crystal Mountain Backcountry Skiing. Photo by Trúc Nguyen Allen

Crystal Mountain Backcountry Skiing. Photo by Trúc Nguyen Allen

Backcountry Skiing Berthoud Pass Colorado by Rob Writz

I have lost track of how many sunrises I have seen from Berthoud Pass. This means that I have also lost count of how many dawn patrols I have had at the Pass over the years. I don’t revel in the sub-zero and pitch black starts, but the day job and family schedule dictate these early mornings. When the sun rises over the Continental Divide it sheds just enough light on the surrounding terrain. From the top of the West Side you can see the Indian Peaks to the north, and the Mount Evans Wilderness to the south. The quick access and the deep snow of Berthoud Pass provide a solace from the harsh morning, and it is the camaraderie of the skiers in the parking lot that brings the warmth. Berthoud Pass is close enough to Denver to justify several laps and then a harrowing drive down I-70 to work. I often joke that after safely navigating the hazards of backcountry skiing, the most dangerous part may be the drive back.

Friends enjoying playful terrain after a classic Colorado storm.

Friends enjoying playful terrain after a classic Colorado storm.

Backcountry skiers have been exploring Berthoud Pass for nearly one hundred years. Cars would shuttle skiers to the top of the Pass, and the pick them up at the bottom. Fast-forward to today and you can find hitchhikers on any given day at a number of trailheads. Those who are generous enough to pull over and give a hitchhiking brother or sister a ride to the top are then blessed with good karma enshrined in the history and tradition of skiing the Pass.

Berthoud Pass also has a rich lift access history. Berthoud Pass Ski Area operated discontinuously from 1937 to 2003. It was the first ski area in Colorado with a rope tow, the first two-person chair lift, and the first to allow snowboarding. The ski area also pioneered big mountain competitions in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

Scott climbing Moonlight Bowl.

Scott climbing Moonlight Bowl.

Quick access, a consistent snowpack, and endless discovery continue to draw backcountry skiers to Berthoud Pass. The east to west orientation of the Pass, located high above the Fraser River and Clear Creek valleys, attracts a deep snowpack benefiting from both northwest flow and upslope storms. In just over an hour drive from Denver, backcountry skiers have access to numerous trailheads leading into the high basins surrounding the Pass. From pre-work dawn patrols, to car shuttling, to all day epics, Berthoud Pass has an adventure for backcountry riders of all skill levels. This is why I love to ski here. I hope to see you in the Pass parking lot enjoying the dawn patrol as much as I do.

Just another two foot dump and the signs are gone.

Just another two foot dump and the signs are gone.

Québec: Escalade Sainte-Émélie (Proximus et Sérénité) by Socrate Badeau

Buy Escalade Sainte-Émélie (Proximus et Sérénité) here and save money versus purchasing from within our app via Apple or Google. It’s exactly the same guidebook, but offered at a lower price on rakkup.com.

 

The Parc de la Matawinie is a beautiful wildness area with great hiking trails, lakes and superb views. Sainte Émélie-de l’Énergie is the gateway to this beautiful playground. If climbing is your fix, you are in luck. There are lots of undeveloped areas if you’re ready for a little bushwhacking. But if you want ready to climb routes well then you won’t be held lacking.

Proximus is the typical roadside crag with little to no approach. Just park and walk for less than one min and choose your climb. Most climbs here are bolt protected sport climbs, but you’ll find a few easier trad lines if that’s more to your taste. The angle varies from polished slabs to overhanging faces and arêtes. The climbs are quite technical and thought provoking. It’s just a great place to try hard.

Sérénité is simply unique. The climbing here is great. It’s definitively one of my favourite cliffs in the Montreal area. Two distinctly different climbing styles will greet you here. First off is 25m of overhanging face with lots of features. Pump and technique is the challenge here. Climbs will have you redlining for the anchors. The second style is more of a face-slab style. But unlike most featureless friction slabs, you’ll be greeted to a variety of slopey step-like holds. Creative positioning and mantling will get you through some cruxes but good footwork and balance are the key. And if that’s not enough, bring your fishing rod and walk up to the lake to try and catch you lake trout that only the patient will catch.

Have fun and enjoy.

Learn more about Socrate Badeau.

Rumney Rock Climbing – by Ward Smith

Buy Rumney here and save money versus purchasing from within our app via Apple or Google. It’s exactly the same guidebook, but offered at a lower price on rakkup.com.

James Otey on Tsunami 5.12c/d

James Otey on Tsunami 5.12c/d

Rumney is the premier sport climbing venue in the Northeast. Located at the southwestern corner of the White Mountain National Forest in New Hampshire, the crags are scattered across the south-facing slopes of Rattlesnake Mountain. With a wide selection of all-bolted routes from 5.2 to 5.15, there are challenges for climbers of any ability.

Chloe Leberge on Yer Anus 5.9

Chloe Leberge on Yer Anus 5.9

But it is more than the bolts that make Rumney so special. Each of the cliffs has a distinctive feel, making it seem like many different areas in one. The predominant rock type –schist – demands a skillfull blend of power and technique. A scenic setting above the Baker River, a great swimming hole, and stable access all contribute to the area’s popularity.

This is the fifth guidebook to Rumney, and the area has undergone incredible changes over that time. Gone are the days of having the crags to yourself –and of free parking. The Forest Service has used the fees to upgrade the parking lots, construct toilet facilities, and improve trails accessing the cliffs. By paying the parking fee and obeying all closures, climbers can demonstrate that we are a responsible user group, and ensure future access for all of us.

Kevin Ogden on Whip Tide 5.12b.

Kevin Ogden on Whip Tide 5.12b.

Climbers have helped to make Rumney what it is today. In 1993, access to the crags was posted by a private landowner. The Access Fund and the Rumney Climber’s Association (RCA) bought the land, and then sold it to the Forest Service. Most recently, the RCA has purchased the last privately owned area of cliffs – the Northwest Crags – through their “final frontier” initiative. A new parking lot has been constructed at the Buffalo Pit, and a new trail was built in order to provide additional access to the Northwest Crags. Please consider joining both the Access Fund and the Rumney Climber’s Association in order to help preserve the crags that we love so much.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Learn more about Ward Smith here.

Bouldering Moore’s Wall – by Adam Sokolow

Buy Bouldering Moore’s Wall here and save money versus purchasing from within our app via Apple or Google. It’s exactly the same guidebook, but offered at a lower price on rakkup.com.

Moore's Wall

Moore’s Wall

The quality of climbing at Moore’s Wall is superb. As John Sherman said in his Stone Crusade, the rock is “bullet-hard quartzite”. Large blocky features that force opposition as well as the small razor sharp crimps are common and found in many of the area classics and test pieces such as Stickman, Proper Modulation, The Nick and Tsunami. Further adding to the experience is the mental game of unlocking beta. Large, seemingly good features from the ground, climb very different than they appear and makes for some thought provoking beta decryption. The high-quality rock, its texture and features along with the vision of the locals has produced a movement and style unique to the Southeast. 

Chris on Tsunami V8

Chris on Tsunami V8

Located inside Hanging Rock State Park in North Carolina, Moore’s Wall is one of many state parks maintained by the North Carolina Parks division. It is part of the Sauratown Mountain Range (1,700 feet to more than 2,500 feet in elevation). It is comprised of four primary sectors, The Main Area, The Valley, The North End, and Two Mile. One of the great things about Moore’s is that the sun exposure is different for each of the areas. During some of the coldest months you can still climb at Two Mile since it is south facing and will always be warmer than the other areas. On the flip side, if it is warm out you can climb at The North End, which is always ten or more degrees colder than The Main Area or Valley. However, a cooler temperature if it is humid out (and this is North Carolina) will just mean the boulder will feel wet. We don’t make the rules here.

Kitten Mittons V7

Kitten Mittons V7

As you might expect, the best time of year to climb here is when it is cold and dry. Although you can theoretically “climb” year round, the heat, poor friction, smog of bugs, unreasonably large spiders, and rattle snakes during the warmer months are a deterrent for most climbers. The climbing season can start as early as September if the temperatures stop exceeding 80 and 90 degrees and continues until it gets unbearably cold at the dead of winter. Climbing picks back up in February or March and continues through May/June. Although with global warming you can occasionally climb throughout the so-called cold months. In what roughly correlates, in our calendar, to the month of December, there is a yearly sasquatch migration. They can be quite territorial. When confronted, avoid direct eye contact; it may be considered an invitation or a challenge depending on the gender of the sasquatch. Be especially careful on a lunar leap year.

 
 
 
 
 
 

Learn more about Adam Sokolow here.

Yangshuo China Rock Climbing by Andrew Hedesh

Buy Yangshuo Rock here and save money versus purchasing from within our app via Apple or Google. It’s exactly the same guidebook, but offered at a lower price on rakkup.com.

Drone footage of the Painted Corridor, Photo: Rock Abond

Drone footage of the Painted Corridor, Photo: Rock Abond

If you’ve ever wondered what China or other parts of the Far East look like, now’s your chance. Yangshuo is one of the most unbelievably hip places on this planet. It’s a microcosm of everything you ever wanted in life. You know how there are those tiny locations nestled into the threadwork of each countries daily life labeled an ‘escape’, well Yangshuo is one of them. Life is pleasant here. Everyone walks around with a smile and are content with life. It’s a place removed from big city drama, allows cultures to cross, and welcomes every idea under the sun.

Traditional cormorant fishing culture, Photo: Anotherdayattheoffice.com

Traditional cormorant fishing culture, Photo: Anotherdayattheoffice.com

For starters, Yangshuo is located amidst the most amazing and fantastic scenery you will ever lay eyes upon. Plentiful 200m tall green towers rise abruptly in every direction starting immediately outside your hotel balcony continuing past your wildest fantasies. And when there aren’t any towers, you’ll find farmer villages surrounded by lush rice paddies and crazy amounts of interconnected trails with swimming holes and hidden caves. The best way to enjoy it all is by grabbing a bicycle and heading out to discover a surreal world where ancient lifestyles mingle with contemporary pursuits.

Overlooking Yangshuo Town, Photo: David Kaszlikowski

Overlooking Yangshuo Town, Photo: David Kaszlikowski

Heading back into town, you might be turned-off by the blistering pace of China’s population and their go-get-it attitude, but then you’ll realize what’s ahead of you is more interesting than the tranquil nature 5 minutes at your back. The town of Yangshuo offers a different perspective of China’s rich history more than any other tourist destination. As said before, it’s used as an escape from the real world, a weekend holiday get-away. The upbeat metropolitan tourists have forced Yangshuo to host an array of first-world amenities rivaled by few and far between. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by the comfort.

Approach to The Egg, Photo: Ursa Kenk

Approach to The Egg, Photo: Ursa Kenk

So as you can see, Yangshuo is a tale of two towns. One with unrivaled natural beauty and a downhome local scene, ahhhh…the climbing, local people, and landscape are simply amazing. Then the second, an upbeat take-it-as-it-comes metropolitan escapade, with either a romantic calmness or wild eccentric nightlife. Yangshuo is an incredibly rare treasure to find on this planet, and its calling for you to experience it. Bring your smiles, climbing shoes, and adventurous soul, all to let yourself get lost in the splendor of everything that is China.

The only way to discuss rock climbing in Yangshuo is to start with the complete experience. Sure, you can travel here purely for the climbing, but after a few days you’ll realize there is so much more. Yangshuo is stocked full of the most interesting international climbers you will meet anywhere, and when intertwined with such a huge diversity of climbing styles it has evolved into the epitome of a world-class rock climbing destination.

Moon Hill, Photo: Henn Photography

Moon Hill, Photo: Henn Photography

Yangshuo rock is stupendous. The karst topography present in South China offers an experience like no other; areas in Thailand Laos and Vietnam can’t compete with the plethora of rock nor the subtle variations found in the rock of Yangshuo. Each of the 50+ crags are located on different towers resulting in every climbing sector having different atmosphere, scenery, and approaches. Furthermore, none of the crags are similar to each other with regards to sun exposure, weather protection, or rock features. Once you experience it, you’ll easily understand why Yangshuo’s rock caters to everyone’s preferred climbing style…even limestone cracks!

Moon Hill, Photo: Henn Photography

Moon Hill, Photo: Henn Photography

As mentioned, there is something for everyone. Routes range in difficulty from 5.5/4 to 5.14d/9a with plenty of high-end Open Projects. There is steep pumpy terrain, technical edgy face climbs, and 3D body torqueing routes. You can pull on tufas until your heart’s content or tip-toe crimp your way to heaven. Everything is possible in Yangshuo including, multi-pitches, deep-water soloing, traditional routes, and limitless development potential. These are the main reasons why Yangshuo has been repeatedly featured in climbing films as well as magazines and continues to attract professional climbers from around the globe.

Yangshuo is one of the best climbing locations in the world. Yes, the rock diversity plays a major role in this designation, but when mixed with friendly welcoming people, a plethora of opposite sex eye-candy, comfortable and familiar living amenities, and easy access to international travel hubs, it’s difficult to find another location with such appeal. After you’ve been here for a while, you may never want to leave. The amount of psych emanating from your crag mates is unrivaled anywhere. You’ll push past individual mental limitations and find undiscovered motivation to attain your next high-point. Give Yangshuo the chance to show you what is possible in this world. It could be the next place you call home!

 
 

Learn more about Andrew Hedesh here.